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IC Chiller install & review

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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #101
The big heat exchanger just reheats the fluid. This should be similar to how the 3 way bypass is used with both of them because the little one is plumbed into the big one. The little guy is just extra cooling - little heat exchanger, big heat exchanger, supercharger
 


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Thread Starter #102
IMG_1707.jpeg
 


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The only time you'll use the regular radiator is when temps <= 60 and yes AN fittings save me a f'ton of time. I'm about to have AN fittings welded onto the supercharger or buy the Holley back plate and have them added there.
 


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Thread Starter #104
So this setup will flow fluid through the heat exhanger and then into the chiller when the switch is on
 


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Thread Starter #105
The only time you'll use the regular radiator is when temps <= 60 and yes AN fittings save me a f'ton of time. I'm about to have AN fittings welded onto the supercharger or buy the Holley back plate and have them added there.
Those water manifold are stupid expensive I was eying them up a few people make them but they’re only 10an smh. Yeah, I had it because I don’t want to kill my compressor when it’s under 60 out. Would have made life a lot easier /cheaper not to use the valve. Introduced a lot of new leak points
 


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which is why mine is on the left side, when on, it goes through the stock radiator in reverse flow (nothing to worry about) when off it routes past it and right to the chiller. the chiller is the single exit in mine and goes right to the reservoir tank no matter in the input is the radiator or a bypass.
 


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Thread Starter #107
which is why mine is on the left side, when on, it goes through the stock radiator in reverse flow (nothing to worry about) when off it routes past it and right to the chiller. the chiller is the single exit in mine and goes right to the reservoir tank no matter in the input is the radiator or a bypass.
Yep, that’s what mine does too just no tank and on the right side because of where they suggested to T in. I think it all does the same, only now I have 3 long lines
 


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Ize be. Now da bypass will be switched on whore a mixture ofhot and cold. Dee way a bypass wurks. Hot and cold mixture for proper performance. A Camero hazed sixof da HX fer proper coolant. But agl coolant lines with inhibited glychol 2 ears dare.glychol run in sequence with da coolen lines duz da same thing. I learned dat frum a mechanical engineer frum Dow Chemical Cumpany Dalton, Ga. Spent 2 ears there. he called himself an glorified plumber. In order 2 get da glorified effects. You have 2 run da inhibuted had 6 ed glychol, antafreeze, with da coolen lines under da insulation. same way a beer tap is wurked. Armaflex. Da Camero Copa, had 6 HX to remove heat and add more HP.
 


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Does the IC brand use an auxiliary second Condenser? If no, is it an option on any of their kits?
 


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Thread Starter #110
Does the IC brand use an auxiliary second Condenser? If no, is it an option on any of their kits?
They don’t, but Im sure you could buy one and add it in - I think someone on here posted recently where to get the secondary condenser from
 


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Thread Starter #111
Support is top notch though from IC. They respond on weekends/after 5. I reached out a few times before I started the install for the diagrams and such.
 


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I need to contact IC. I had an incident at the track Friday and lost AC/chiller. The big block that bolts to the compressor...the fitting that threads on vibrated loose and dumped my entire low side right at the compressor inlet.

I've spent probably 150 bucks on new gauges/adapters/cheap vacuum pump & freon but it's still not "right" - 6hrs today and I have AC again but the chiller doesn't get near as cold as it did previous.

@16GoManGoHC2 how did you charge your chiller on first install? With the drag valve on (KC only) or off (KC and AC)? My low side is probably 40psi with chiller & AC on & the high is probably 175-200. If I engage drag mode (chiller only) I can watch the low side drop to ~30 and I lose my high side because of the location of the port. If I introduce any more freon it will hit the cutout when in normal mode (AC & Chiller). At this point I should probably pay to have the entire system deep vacuumed & completely evac'd then start from scratch with a proper initial charge.

Hopefully @Unholy707 's experience goes smoothly. At least it's coming along better than mine. Lol
 


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Thread Starter #113
I need to contact IC. I had an incident at the track Friday and lost AC/chiller. The big block that bolts to the compressor...the fitting that threads on vibrated loose and dumped my entire low side right at the compressor inlet.

I've spent probably 150 bucks on new gauges/adapters/cheap vacuum pump & freon but it's still not "right" - 6hrs today and I have AC again but the chiller doesn't get near as cold as it did previous.

@16GoManGoHC2 how did you charge your chiller on first install? With the drag valve on (KC only) or off (KC and AC)? My low side is probably 40psi with chiller & AC on & the high is probably 175-200. If I engage drag mode (chiller only) I can watch the low side drop to ~30 and I lose my high side because of the location of the port. If I introduce any more freon it will hit the cutout when in normal mode (AC & Chiller). At this point I should probably pay to have the entire system deep vacuumed & completely evac'd then start from scratch with a proper initial charge.

Hopefully @Unholy707 's experience goes smoothly. At least it's coming along better than mine. Lol
Psh at least yours was running. I’m getting a full evac and charge from the start. I’m more worried about my water fittings from the brick than the AC ones. Just finished wiring, I’m going to vacuum fill the coolant this evening and then the car goes to have Freon recover and then charge after I do the lines (they’re going to hold onto my refrigerant for a few days). I still have to do the AC lines unfortunately…
 


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Thread Starter #114
I will tell you that that fitting (suction to the screw on fitting to compressor) was the only one in the kit that is on tight I can’t get it undone. I will for sure be checking it though. @fubar569, did you lube any of the crush washers/o rings on the fittings?
 


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I will tell you that that fitting (suction to the screw on fitting to compressor) was the only one in the kit that is on tight I can’t get it undone. I will for sure be checking it though. @fubar569, did you lube any of the crush washers/o rings on the fittings?
I can't speak for that since it was installed originally by All Par garage this spring. I just heard a hissing sound in the pits after my final pass and found that compressor line leaking. Didn't think any damage would have been done to any sealing surface so I tightened any fitting that I could touch in the engine bay from the top when I got home before I started this recharge adventure.
 


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That or take a spray bottle with a soapy subtamce in it. Then spray all da fitttins and look fer bubbles, leaks.
 


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That or take a spray bottle with a soapy subtamce in it. Then spray all da fitttins and look fer bubbles, leaks.
I pulled a vacuum on both sides upto like 26 or 28 in/hg and held for at least 10min. Didn't lose any so I sent it.

I'll probably have a shop completely evac ,deep vac and recharge in the spring. But I needed this done immediately for drag week. It works. Might be ok for now. We'll see once we're making passes.
 


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Thread Starter #118
waiting game..

IMG_1719.jpeg
 


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No, youz did a good job. Just luukin fer dat purfect Delta Tee dat will put cha at around da 15 to10 17 degree differance. Eazest way is 2 take an hand held digatal thermomaturd and take da temps.
 


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Thread Starter #120
Switches installed
IMG_1729.jpeg
 




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