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Unholy707

Unholy707

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Thread Starter #41
I have 19 redeye fuel rails and driveshaft, 19 center console, esm and media hub, 2018 supercharger, 2016 heater core hard lines, and 2016 8hp90. Nothing on there is from a 17 (I think)
 


fumanchu182

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#42
Mine is 2014 and it has that nub. Save your timing cover it may be 1 of 1 🤣
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #43
So weird
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #44
Blower just came in. Beautiful port work. Kind of strange they used a gasket that’s bigger than the port work. Anyone else see this before?

IMG_9369.jpeg IMG_9367.jpeg IMG_9365.jpeg
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #45
Can confirm 2 holes were exposed due to the porting - 1 for the bypass and the other for the map sensor. These screws will require silicone now

IMG_9370.jpeg
 


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#46
I'd pull the snout and trim the gasket. Otherwise kind of defeats the purpose.
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #47
Yeah, was a bit surprised to see that. Thought maybe snout wouldn’t even need a gasket anymore, like the bearing plate
I'd pull the snout and trim the gasket. Otherwise kind of defeats the purpose.
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #48
Can confirm 2 holes were exposed due to the porting - 1 for the bypass and the other for the map sensor. These screws will require silicone now

View attachment 152407
Wondering if this is standard with ported snouts
 


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#49
Wondering if this is standard with ported snouts
Depends on the bearing plate. Some of them get rid of the gasket and just use anaerobic sealer. But I'd think trimming the gasket to match the port work would be included.
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #50
Same, especially on a full rebuild
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #51
Well this isn’t supposed to be here. Who was the guy that said their starter shorted from coolant? I know why it’s there, lines were dripping during removal

IMG_9408.jpeg
 


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#52
Yep. If your SC coolant drips back there it goes onto your flywheel and clutch also.
 


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Thread Starter #53
Plenty of space with the alternator removed and that bundle of wires pulled back. Installing headers, changing plugs, paint block, and then supercharger goes back together/back on

IMG_9363.jpeg
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #54
Welp every single bolt is seized and no idea where my wd40 went. Picking up some penetrating lubricant in the morning and some additional wrenches, definitely need more leverage to st least break them loose. Jack handle usually does the trick but not with a flex head wrench. Going to live them all up first, not risking breaking them
 


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Thread Starter #55
Probably going to pick up an offset boxed 10mm as well. Everything else is off and out of the way, just gotta get the header bolts out. Wasn’t expecting them to be that seized but from all of the heat cycles makes sense I suppose
 


2ndgen

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#56
What do people recommend for exhaust header bolts: just install new OEM or go to ARP ?
 


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#57
Very surprised that gasket isn't matched to the port. Seems like lazy work there to me.
 


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Unholy707

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Thread Starter #58
I went with new factory bolts, I f I can even get the old ones out
 


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Thread Starter #59
Liquid wrench and an offset combination boxed 10/11mm wrench worked perfect, most of the bolts busted loose (on one side) without breaking anything. Wrench has just enough extra length to provide more leverage, and it being offset allows you to actually turn it
 


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#60
I
I have no god damn clue what you are talking about.
It's HOLY GUY....(bipolar)...gotta see the sparks fly when he re connects his battery :oops::oops::oops:;)
 




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