Wheel stud replacement

[Hpindy]

Which lug nuts did you get?

I got these

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[Frenchcat]

THANK YOU!!

I think I found the stud that will work for my needs. From left to right is Doorman stock replacement 610-502 at 50 mm stud length
Doorman 610-435 with is about 8 mm longer then stock
Doorman 610-509 which is about 25 mm longer then stock
And ARP stud which is about 45 mm longer then stock but knurl pilot is not present
Going to be using the 610-435
View attachment 8652 View attachment 8653 View attachment 8654

Please do you have part # of the ARP stud on those pictures?

 

[Hpindy]

Please do you have part # of the ARP stud on those pictures?

Here you go

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[Frenchcat]

Thanks @Hpindy ! Correct me if I'm wrong, those Arp studs are listed 0.50 " longer than our OEM one's but with the ball nose, they are 1.00" longer over all?

 

[Hpindy]

Thanks @Hpindy ! Correct me if I'm wrong, those Arp studs are listed 0.50 " longer than our OEM one's but with the ball nose, they are 1.00" longer over all?

I would have to measure them . But that sounds about right . I have them on my car .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Installed new DSS Stage 5 axles yesterday along with changing the studs. They don’t come out without removing the hub as some have suggested. Also, the Bolt heads that hold the hub on have a goofy head on them requiring a special E12 socket. The harbor freight ball joint splitter worked GREAT getting the old studs out, recommend tool for $20 it worked great. I ended up using the ARP studs cut to 64 mm under the head which gave me full engagement using a 12 mm spacer on the Racestars and when putting the stock 20’s back on without the spacer original lug nuts had 2 turns left before bottoming.
What a job the first one was, since hub was off puled the E brake shoes off to cleaning things up and learned the hard way the lower alum shoe retaining pin has to go back in BEFORE putting the plate and hub back on, there’s no getting it in after assembly like the top one
But now ready for testing

 

[Hpindy]

Installed new DSS Stage 5 axles yesterday along with changing the studs. They don’t come out without removing the hub as some have suggested. Also, the Bolt heads that hold the hub on have a goofy head on them requiring a special E12 socket. The harbor freight ball joint splitter worked GREAT getting the old studs out, recommend tool for $20 it worked great. I ended up using the ARP studs cut to 64 mm under the head which gave me full engagement using a 12 mm spacer on the Racestars and when putting the stock 20’s back on without the spacer original lug nuts had 2 turns left before bottoming.
What a job the first one was, since hub was off puled the E brake shoes off to cleaning things up and learned the hard way the lower alum shoe retaining pin has to go back in BEFORE putting the plate and hub back on, there’s no getting it in after assembly like the top one
But now ready for testing
View attachment 9026 View attachment 9027 View attachment 9028 View attachment 9029 View attachment 9030 View attachment 9031 View attachment 9032 View attachment 9033 View attachment 9034 View attachment 9035 View attachment 9036

You are correct on the removal/installation of the studs on the rear . I had a brain fart when I posted above . The method I mentioned above only works on the front . I apologize on the miss information. .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

No problem no harm intended just setting the record straight for those that think this is a easy task, it’s not unfortunately

 

[DRAGRCR]

No problem no harm intended just setting the record straight for those that think this is a easy task, it’s not unfortunately

When my Demon broke the rear Diff I had the ford truck studs installed all 20 front and back. The Tech did it at night as a side Job. Would not tell me up front the cost. If you think about it some of the work is already done during the Diff replacement if doing it at the same time. So, I had my fingers crossed. When he was done, he asked me for $150. I handed him $200 cash. I know that would be a hard job for me and take a long time so WELL WORTH IT.

 

[Diboblo]

Installed new DSS Stage 5 axles yesterday along with changing the studs. They don’t come out without removing the hub as some have suggested. Also, the Bolt heads that hold the hub on have a goofy head on them requiring a special E12 socket. The harbor freight ball joint splitter worked GREAT getting the old studs out, recommend tool for $20 it worked great. I ended up using the ARP studs cut to 64 mm under the head which gave me full engagement using a 12 mm spacer on the Racestars and when putting the stock 20’s back on without the spacer original lug nuts had 2 turns left before bottoming.
What a job the first one was, since hub was off puled the E brake shoes off to cleaning things up and learned the hard way the lower alum shoe retaining pin has to go back in BEFORE putting the plate and hub back on, there’s no getting it in after assembly like the top one
But now ready for testing
View attachment 9026 View attachment 9027 View attachment 9028 View attachment 9029 View attachment 9030 View attachment 9031 View attachment 9032 View attachment 9033 View attachment 9034 View attachment 9035 View attachment 9036

Do you have a source, for the E12 socket you used on the rear hubs?


<EDIT>Scratch that... I see from the pix, what you're getting at. I have a set of E sockets.</EDIT>


Bob
Riverside, California

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

When my Demon broke the rear Diff I had the ford truck studs installed all 20 front and back. The Tech did it at night as a side Job. Would not tell me up front the cost. If you think about it some of the work is already done during the Diff replacement if doing it at the same time. So, I had my fingers crossed. When he was done, he asked me for $150. I handed him $200 cash. I know that would be a hard job for me and take a long time so WELL WORTH IT.

You got a steal of a deal there, took me all day (well, one I had to do twice because of that damn pin) Passenger side took half the time once I did it twice on the driver side lol

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Ok, so 52F here yesterday, local test area, concrete bridge over the river, warmed up to a balmy 42F surface temp. Did a 1st gear hit, pulled over checked stud torque ok, no rub, took it up to 140 slowly felt good, went back to the starting gate for a full hit. Unfortunately spin spin spin, felt no different then the Nitto NT05r, couldn’t hook, too cold. Max G’s on launch .76, .78 and .80, high 11 1/4’s 2.162 60’. Went home and put the Nittos back on and see how they did within 1/2 hour of the 3 passes I tried. Launch G’s .80, .82 high 11 passes and about the same 60’. Even though 50 out it’s been 10-20 for a few days roads just too cold. Funny thing ran a 11.87 on the MT’s and a exact 11.87 on the Nitto’s. It’s going to be a long winter waiting on spring for the track to open
So at the moment the Nitto’s and the MT’s dead even on street hook on a 42F surface.

 

[coolblue]

Maybe you gotta play with air pressure? or compound on M/T's just has to be warmer to be more effective than nitto's ? Hope so, that's a lot of money and effort for no difference.

 

[coolblue]

Maybe you gotta play with air pressure? or compound on M/T's just has to be warmer to be more effective than nitto's ? Hope so, that's a lot of money and effort for no difference.

Also why are u using an external performance device thingy. Is it more accurate than the one incorporated in the car's computer?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Yea, I like the G-Tech, it uses a 50 Hz GPS unit and is very accurate, I’ve compared it to track timers numerous times and it’s within a few thousandth’s of hard wired sensors. It gives 60’ times and can graphs runs side by side and incorporate G forces into the run so you can see where your loosing time etc. But the cars timers for what they can show are pretty close most times to it but I’ve seen the car timer be off by .2 seconds some times, sometimes fast and sometimes slow so I give car timer a +/- window of .2 seconds, Compared to the Gtech +/- .005
seconds depending on how many satellites it’s tracking. And my Capri has no dash timer of any sort so it has a purpose more then just the cat.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Had tires down to 24 psi, didn’t have allot of test and tune time and my test area was pretty busy hard to get a clear and open bridge plus I had to get to a viewing and service for a friend who passed last week

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

TPMS activation. Installed TPMS sensors in the new race stars, used units from summit that where supposed to be compatable with My 16 challenger. Mopar units, but car not picking them up, says SERVICE TIRE PRESSURE SYSTEM or something of that order in the dash display. These units the wrong units or just weren’t set up right when installed?
I knew I should have looked up the ones I bought and used in the 20x10.5 replicas in the spring and got the same ones

 

[Diboblo]

TPMS activation. Installed TPMS sensors in the new race stars, used units from summit that where supposed to be compatable with My 16 challenger. Mopar units, but car not picking them up, says SERVICE TIRE PRESSURE SYSTEM or something of that order in the dash display. These units the wrong units or just weren’t set up right when installed?
I knew I should have looked up the ones I bought and used in the 20x10.5 replicas in the spring and got the same ones View attachment 9228 View attachment 9229

Disconnect the battery for a few, then put some miles on the car.

Bob
Riverside, California

 

[DRAGRCR]

TPMS activation. Installed TPMS sensors in the new race stars, used units from summit that where supposed to be compatable with My 16 challenger. Mopar units, but car not picking them up, says SERVICE TIRE PRESSURE SYSTEM or something of that order in the dash display. These units the wrong units or just weren’t set up right when installed?
I knew I should have looked up the ones I bought and used in the 20x10.5 replicas in the spring and got the same ones View attachment 9228 View attachment 9229

I am not a big fan of battery disconnects. Besides I have never had to do that. All I can say is when a complete set of new sensors is installed it might take 20 minutes of driving to connect. So do 30 just to be sure. Once the car learns them they will connect sooner next time you switch them out. Car can learn and store 2 sets I think. Try hitting OK on the steering wheel. Go to tire shop and ask them to diagnose and wake them up. They have a device that will query the sensor. But the newer ones do not need to be woken up or reset. It's plug and play. But they can at least tell you if the batteries are dead etc.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Drove them around for a good while, i thought they where connected at they read 32 psi when 35 was in them but then went blank after about 10 mikes and never came back. Put the Nitto’s on and it read them before I left the drive way. There’s 8 of them in my garage pretty close to the car, 2 fronts which are original, 2 on original rims with 275 MT Street SS on them, 2 in the replica Nitto rims and these 2 new ones in the race stars. That was my thought too, take them to where I had them mounted and see if they get a reading from them. They where brand new, do they have to have a tab pulled on them to connect their battery or any thing??