REAR SEAT DELETE: FAILURE AND FIX.

[coolblue]

This is a little bit of a lengthy thread but I think it's important because these kits are not cheap (and hard to come by) and will definitely help someone out when they have to do service or just remove the seat for ANY reason.
Ok, let me say I had this kit in my '09 Challenger 1st. Then removed to put in my RE when purchased. As I was removing the kit from the '09, I realized how extra ordinarily hard it was removing the base. It was the last piece to come out so I had full access to it. The back from the trunk already being removed. Let me say even with access from the rear and my forearm under the seat it would NOT come out. You could hear the fibers in the ultra thin panel kinda' hissing as they were straining not to separate from the epoxy they're set in. It's a very tight fit getting your arm under the panel to boot and your body in the trunk. Went to the front and tried to lift also. Same hissing sound. Finally got a flat bar, wiggled under the cleat (not easy) then applied pressure, pressure,...more... then POP! she was out. The passenger side was less dramatic but also a bear. I got it out clean and installed in RE but knew it was structurally compromised and would not survive another removal/install. Alas I was right, just look at pics. The problem is the RUBBER GROMMETS and CLEATS are designed for a full weight steel frame seats and being used on a piece of fiber board. Ridiculous! The grommets are rubber tops vulcanized to a very strong fiber reinforced ABS, with a very tight clearance and a contour that SNAPS around the seat cleat. Once it bites down, it don't want to come out. You have to relieve the clamping force by opening up the grommet groove but not so much you remove the bottom contour completely. It's a tight area and tough plastic. Fortunately my father was a model railroader and left me some real nice tools to do small fine work. So if you order the kit do this BEFORE installation.
Hope this helps.
P.S. It was fixed with Gorilla glue epoxy. It is fully functional, very strong and looks new and undamaged from topside.

 

[jgilj]

This is a little bit of a lengthy thread but I think it's important because these kits are not cheap (and hard to come by) and will definitely help someone out when they have to do service or just remove the seat for ANY reason.
Ok, let me say I had this kit in my '09 Challenger 1st. Then removed to put in my RE when purchased. As I was removing the kit from the '09, I realized how extra ordinarily hard it was removing the base. It was the last piece to come out so I had full access to it. The back from the trunk already being removed. Let me say even with access from the rear and my forearm under the seat it would NOT come out. You could here the fibers in the ultra thin panel kinda' hissing as they were straining not to separate from the epoxy they're set in. It's a very tight fit getting your arm under the panel to boot and your body in the trunk. Went to the front and tried to lift also. Same hissing sound. Finally got a flat bar, wiggled under the cleat (not easy) then applied pressure, pressure,...more... then POP! she was out. The passenger side was less dramatic but also a bear. I got it out clean and installed in RE but knew it was structurally compromised and would not survive another removal/install. Alas I was right, just look at pics. The problem is the RUBBER GROMMETS and CLEATS are designed for a full weight steal frame seats and being used on a piece of fiber board. Ridiculous! The grommets are rubber tops vulcanized to a very strong fiber reinforced ABS, with a very tight clearance and a contour that SNAPS around the seat cleat. Once it bites down, it don't want to come out. You have to relieve the clamping force by opening up the grommet groove but not so much you remove the bottom contour completely. It's a tight area and tough plastic. Fortunately my father was a model railroader and left me some real nice tools to do small fine work. So if you order the kit do this BEFORE installation.
Hope this helps.
P.S. It was fixed with Gorilla glue epoxy. It is fully functional, very strong and looks new and undamaged from topside.

Thanks for the info! If I ever get mine I’ll make sure this is done prior to installation.

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

Great info Cool. Thanks for the tutorial.

 

[MiHiHemi]

Glad that removal of mine will be up to someone else years from now

 

[Paladin06]

I just have to find a kit ☹️.

 

[MiHiHemi]

I just have to find a kit ☹️.

I know. Wonder what the deal is with the rarity of these kits lately. They are still in demand.

 

[Tuckerracing]

When I ordered my kit it took roughly 3 months from order date to ship date. When called to get updates i was told they were waiting on material to build the kits and that they only build so many kits at a time and then wait for “X” amount of orders before they build any more. I bought mine through wholesalemopar.com and it was $393 before shipping that was in May 2019.

 

[jgilj]

Wow that’s great mines been on order for at least 6 months! Still waiting 😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😡