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Let’s build a race car

Am I insane?


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covidcommander

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🍿
 


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Thread Starter #622
Its been a thrash the last 24 hours. This car was used to mock up in the shop. Hellcat will be the first car to make a power pass then Mikes. Then whatever after.
IMG_4642.jpeg IMG_4643.jpeg IMG_4641.jpeg IMG_4639.jpeg
 


Unholy707

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It finally came in!! Awesome man! Cant wait to see some videos of it running
 


Marc W

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Nice!!👍🏼
 


Unholy707

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Is that the 2k one?
 


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Thread Starter #626
2k premium. Easily upgradeable to AWD will max out at 2500-2800hp
 


covidcommander

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Outstanding addition to the shop
 


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Thread Starter #628
Stay tuned, might live stream the Hellcat on the dyno.
 


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Thread Starter #629
IMG_4656.jpeg
she made some good power north of 900 easily.

hp:nunya tq:bidness

the important part of the night was learning the dyno software. No tuning, no logging.
 


DavidKFla

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nice
 


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Thread Starter #631
Trying my god damn best to get it ready for this weekend.
IMG_4672.jpeg
kinda stretched at all ends, hellcat was a treat to make a passes on the dyno.

race car not so much, non lockup convertor makes it hard to load it up for the ramp, progress is being made, 14psi of boost, safe 12* of timing. Ill let the holley data speak for itself
IMG_4675.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #632
IF ANYONE IS USING A TH400 READ THIS POST....

Abso-fcking-lutely disregard what you think you know. @zhc and @Marc W are saints with their patience and outright not calling me a fuck tard so for that I am thankful. I was having an absolute nightmare getting the TH400 to go into gears. Well this is the second time Motion Raceworks products have bit me in the ass, the first was their stupid ass sensor block for TH400 cars (fuck that thing it's a pile of shit, the only reason it's still in the car is because I don't have the funds to switch to low-doller motorsports). So the Operator Shifter was adjusted and setup just like in their youtube video. Well it's wrong and I'm telling anyone here now, stick with B&M ratchet pro shifters. To get mine to work I had to work backwards from clean neutral to get third to engage, it's hilariously fickle how a TH400 gets bumped into gear.

1730690760146.png
Vertical cursor is right before I shifted from R/N to 1.

1730690865357.png
vertical cursor is right before I shifted from 1 to 2
1730690947571.png
vertical line is before I went to 2 to 3.

The orange line dips are convertor pressure dropping which is expected as I was not on the gas. It took us a few hours to get it right by then I didn't even want to do a full throttle pull, I was so sick and tired of this shit. It will honestly be a miracle if I get to run Saturday, when doing a prior WOT pull we blew out an oring on the trans cooler so now I need to get that fixed but to be honest the derale cooler is shit and I wish I went with a different brand.

However having the dyno is fucking awesome. My hellcat has made a ton of pulls and it is living it's best life, time to get @Jon-MooredPerformanceLLC to finish the tuning after axle/diff/driveshaftpalooza from 2023...
 


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From what you’re saying about not properly finding the gears with that shifter, it sounds like you have the wrong shifter for the valve body in your trans. The standard and reverse valve bodies have different length throws and a shifter made for one, won’t work properly for the other. You can adjust your ass off and never get it right. For example…. If your shifter finds 1st and 2nd but not 3rd….. wrong shifter. I have a reverse valve body in my 400. I pull back on the lever. There is no clean neutral. I can be in high gear at 7000 rpm and when I let off the gas, the trans freewheels and the rpm will go to idle without me doing anything. That’s some weird shit. I also have an actual reverse position instead of using the transbrake in neutral to back up. The reason I know this about valve body/shifter requirements is because we put a new Paramount built 400 in the blue car. They said it had a different valve body then it in fact did. So…. The shifter for what was supposed to be in there, didnt work. Initially thought it was the shifter (Precision) so we replaced it with a Motion Raceworks. It still didn’t work. Pulled the valve body, and….. oh look. It wasn’t what was supposed to be in there. Once that was determined, rather than deal with that trans builder anymore, we simply got the right shifter from Motion and it worked without any problems.
 


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fumanchu182

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Thread Starter #634
From what you’re saying about not properly finding the gears with that shifter, it sounds like you have the wrong shifter for the valve body in your trans. The standard and reverse valve bodies have different length throws and a shifter made for one, won’t work properly for the other. You can adjust your ass off and never get it right. For example…. If your shifter finds 1st and 2nd but not 3rd….. wrong shifter. I have a reverse valve body in my 400. I pull back on the lever. There is no clean neutral. I can be in high gear at 7000 rpm and when I let off the gas, the trans freewheels and the rpm will go to idle without me doing anything. That’s some weird shit. I also have an actual reverse position instead of using the transbrake in neutral to back up. The reason I know this is because we put a new Paramount built 400 in the blue car. They said it had a different valve body then it in fact did. So…. The shifter for what was supposed to be in there, didnt work. Initially thought it was the shifter (Precision) so we replaced it with a Motion Raceworks. It still didn’t work. Pulled the valve body, and….. oh look. It wasn’t what was supposed to be in there. Once that was determined, rather than deal with that trans builder anymore, we simply got the right shifter from Motion and it worked without any problems.
We verified the valve body, positive clicks for P, R/N, 1, 2, 3, N. Thinking of trashing it and buying a kwik like in the dragpaks
 


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Thread Starter #635
Wont be making a hit in any car this weekend. But now that Im able to go through video backlogs I put a little teaser together.

I bought a Mainline Prohub Dyno!

ill be uploading some more videos tonight
 


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Thread Starter #636
Made so much power that literally every shop within walking distance came in that afternoon to ask wth was going on.


Can your #racecar do this?
 


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Thread Starter #637

Made 797 on a basic ass tune, no shift point changes. 1300cc, 2.72, dual pumps e85.

IMG_4754.jpeg

Take a look at the torque line, see that dip? We can replicate the infamous fall on face feeling and tune it out immediately.

We have a revision coming soon. Was also a teaching lesson for Matt how to use the dyno.
 


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Thread Starter #638
@Jon-MooredPerformanceLLC worked his magic...
IMG_4755.jpeg
First revision. Im also an idiot and set the ramp test to higher than what Jon set for his shift. Pull was done in fifth gear and well went into sixth… 🤦‍♂️
 


Unholy707

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Awesome man! Getting there, you’re getting the dyno dialed in! Learning it pretty quick. Wish I was out there
 


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Thread Starter #640
PSA About Motion Raceworks RIFE Sensor blocks...

DO NOT TRUST IT.

So long story short I purchased: https://motionraceworks.com/product...-kit-converter-line-pressure-plus-temp-sensor
You will see the following in the description:

This block comes with converter charge pressure (300PSI) and line pressure (300PSI) with 3AN ports so that you can plumb into your ports and leave connected when pulling the transmission. The extra m5 quick connect wiring option for the temp sensor means simply connect both ends and you are off and running.
This is false. On the drivers side you will have your main line pressure port, you will see 210-230 depending on the transmission builder. On the passenger side you will have an upper and lower port. The upper port is return from the cooler, nothing special here. The lower port is the converter charger pressure port and is the out to the cooler. You will usually see 60-80psi. Well I was seeing 100+ due to the Holley scaling issues. PITA. The silk screening on the image is correct. The data on the website is wrong and they do not provide the 200PSI pdf on the website. So underneath the car last night I had to redo all the lines, plug them into the correct ports and had to re-scale holley. I'm seriously pissed about this as there is zero to no room for a th400 in our cars. Also had to replace the stupid Derale oil cooler as the ORB fittings would not seal at all. The machined surfaces were not within spec and o-rings had no chance. Next season the sensor block will be mounted to the firewall. The Motion guys were laughing their ass off last night on my voicemail where I asked them to pray to Jesus to drop the car on my head.

I have attached as PDF's the correct data. For holley since it is 16 cells use every other value.
 


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