IC Chiller install & review

[Jonwrong]

if I was to go this route where would the aux.tank be patched in?

I am doing exactly this. You put the aux tank right in the middle of that diagram where it says straight pipe.

 

[Jonwrong]

Here are some plumbing options:

Factory/stock loop setup is:
SC_hot -> pump -> aux_HX -> HX -> SC_cold

HX is inline with everything, or bypassed, HX flow reversed:
SC_hot -> (3-way/T)--> bypass ---> (3-way/T) -> pump -> IC_Brick -> tank -> SC_cold
                  \--> HX ------/

HX is inline with everything, or bypassed, stock HX flow direction:
SC_hot -> pump -> IC_Brick -> tank -> (3-way/T)--> bypass ---> (3-way/T) -> SC_cold
                                              \--> HX ------/

HX and IC Brick are XOR, tank is always in flow, stock HX flow direction:
SC_hot -> pump -> (3-way/T)--> IC_Brick --> (3-way/T) -> tank -> SC_cold
                          \--> HX -------/

HX and IC Brick plus tank are XOR, stock HX flow direction:
SC_hot -> pump -> (3-way/T)--> IC_Brick -> tank --> (3-way/T) -> SC_cold
                          \--> HX ---------------/

Of course, by changing where you route lines you can reverse the flow through the factory HX if you want or preserve the stock flow direction.

Failure modes to consider would be, what happens if:

• the 3-way valve fails
• you forget to use the 3-way valve switch, and/or
• you forget to turn on the A/C

Depending on how you plumb things, it can be possible that:

• If the default valve position is bypass and you forget to turn on the A/C then the SC will get no cooling whatsoever.
• If the default valve position is non-bypass (HX) the SC will at least get ambient HX cooling--unless you remember to hit the bypass switch but also forget to turn on the A/C (less likely to remember just one and not both).

If you put the chiller brick in the bypass leg, then remembering to turn on the A/C but forgetting to not bypass will result in getting ambient HX cooling.

If you leave the chiller brick always in the flow then remembering to turn on the A/C but forgetting to not bypass will result in getting chiller cooling, but not maximal (the ambient HX will become a relative heat source)--still better than no cooling at all, and still better than just ambient HX cooling.

All good points. I guess the question then is: How does the bypass valve work? It’s off with no power and rotates to bypass with power. If it loses power, it auto returns? What if the electronics fail when it’s on? If you set it up to run the HX by default and on is to the chiller, will you wear it out quickly mostly being on?

 

[2ndgen]

All good points. I guess the question then is: How does the bypass valve work? It’s off with no power and rotates to bypass with power. If it loses power, it auto returns? What if the electronics fail when it’s on? If you set it up to run the HX by default and on is to the chiller, will you wear it out quickly mostly being on?

Yes, it auto returns when it loses power. It has a capacitor inside for this. This is actually how it returns every time--it's only power on or power off.

 

[Jonwrong]

I think I’m going to leave it going to the chiller by default. I also found a great place/way to mount it. I’m going to come straight off the pump.

 

[2ndgen]

I think I’m going to leave it going to the chiller by default. I also found a great place/way to mount it. I’m going to come straight off the pump.

That's what I did. A short, straight run from the pump to the valve, then one out to the HX -> T, the other to the brick -> bypass line -> T, T -> SC cold inlet.
Lets you leave the entire hot side plumbing factory from SC to pump inlet, reuse the factory cold side from HX outlet to SC inlet (just change it from connecting directly to HX outlet to T, and a new, short run from HX outlet to T).

 

[Jonwrong]

That's what I did. A short, straight run from the pump to the valve, then one out to the HX -> T, the other to the brick -> bypass line -> T, T -> SC cold inlet.
Lets you leave the entire hot side plumbing factory from SC to pump inlet, reuse the factory cold side from HX outlet to SC inlet (just change it from connecting directly to HX outlet to T, and a new, short run from HX outlet to T).

Your shorthand is a bit tough to follow. But, I’m sure you’re right.

 

[rookerrobert]

I still have mine the the box crash bumper,aux. tank the whole thing but I know I cant do the install in one weekend and at my age.I wouldnt be able to remember what I've done or not. I have checked around local and no one seems to know this what the ic chiller really is so there not going to experiment with my car.

 

[Jonwrong]

I still have mine the the box crash bumper,aux. tank the whole thing but I know I cant do the install in one weekend and at my age.I wouldnt be able to remember what I've done or not. I have checked around local and no one seems to know this what the ic chiller really is so there not going to experiment with my car.

It is definitely more than a weekend for anyone that hasn’t done it. This kit is not plug and play. It is plug and play for the hvac lines only. I know a guy in Orlando that has a high end shop and has done several. It’s a bit of a drive for you, but I can recommend them. I plan on making a video with all the missing info when I finish my install.

 

[2ndgen]

Your shorthand is a bit tough to follow. But, I’m sure you’re right.

I don't have a tank. But here's how I did mine:

HX and IC Brick are XOR, stock HX flow direction:

                           /--C--> IC_Brick -C-> bypass hose -C-\
SC_hot -F-> pump -C-> 3-way                                     T -F-> SC_cold
                           \-C-F-> HX ------------C-------------/

lines with an "F" in them are factory
lines with a "C" in them are custom

T on passenger side:
- factory hose originally from SC cold hardline to HX outlet is relocated to come off the T
- new short line from HX outlet to T
- new bypass line from T across top of bumper to 3-way valve on driver side (T to short piece to 90 to bypass line across)
Bypass (chilled) flow goes through 90 then straight through T, non-bypass (HX) flow goes through 90 bend in T



Driver side: 3-way valve comes straight off pump outlet:



Driver side: 3-way bottom outlet goes down then through a 180 bend into the IC Chiller brick outer-most connector:




Driver side: 3-way top outlet goes down with a 90 and small new hose, joined to the factory hose into the factory HX inlet:


You can of course swap your 3-way outlets, or route differently. I wanted to minimize how much of the factory lines needed changing, and I especially wanted to preserve the factory lines on the hot side to the pump inlet.
I have mine set so if the power fails to the 3-way it defaults to use the factory HX--so worst case I at least get ambient cooling to the SC. Gotta throw switches to enable it all--both the bypass switch and the cabin AC. With this setup, user error could result in HX bypassed, but AC not turned on, thus no SC cooling. I plan to remedy that later on with a CAN-bus enabled controller board.

 

[Jonwrong]

I think the fear of accidentally getting zero cooling to the SC is not too hard to deal with. I mean the pump can go out in the stock config and cause the same issue. The solution is to keep IAT or SC coolant temp up as your extra gauge.

 

[Unholy707]

Does anyone have any good pics of where/how they mounted the bypass? I am going to plumb it where coolant is either flowing through the HX or the chiller. I have the aux tank and chiller mounted. I just need to run the labyrinth of lines. Better instructions would really help to speed things up.

Yes, search for my thread - ic chillier install and review

 

[Unholy707]

I don't have a tank. But here's how I did mine:

HX and IC Brick are XOR, stock HX flow direction:

                           /--C--> IC_Brick -C-> bypass hose -C-\
SC_hot -F-> pump -C-> 3-way                                     T -F-> SC_cold
                           \-C-F-> HX ------------F-------------/

lines with an "F" in them are factory
lines with a "C" in them are custom

T on passenger side:
- factory hose originally from SC cold hardline to HX outlet is relocated to come off the T
- new short line from HX outlet to T
- new bypass line from T across top of bumper to 3-way valve on driver side (T to short piece to 90 to bypass line across)
Bypass (chilled) flow goes through 90 then straight through T, non-bypass (HX) flow goes through 90 bend in T

View attachment 153959 View attachment 153960

Driver side: 3-way valve comes straight off pump outlet:
View attachment 153967 View attachment 153966
View attachment 153969

Driver side: 3-way bottom outlet goes down then through a 180 bend into the IC Chiller brick outer-most connector:
View attachment 153962

View attachment 153970

Driver side: 3-way top outlet goes down with a 90 and small new hose, joined to the factory hose into the factory HX inlet:
View attachment 153968

You can of course swap your 3-way outlets, or route differently. I wanted to minimize how much of the factory lines needed changing, and I especially wanted to preserve the factory lines on the hot side to the pump inlet.
I have mine set so if the power fails to the 3-way it defaults to use the factory HX--so worst case I at least get ambient cooling to the SC. Gotta throw switches to enable it all--both the bypass switch and the cabin AC. With this setup, user error could result in HX bypassed, but AC not turned on, thus no SC cooling. I plan to remedy that later on with a CAN-bus enabled controller board.

Mine is pump almost exactly the same way

 

[Unholy707]

Only I reverse flow the hxc on the hot side so only 100% cold fluid is always going directly to the supercharger and not potentially pulling anything from the hxc

 

[2ndgen]

Mine is pump almost exactly the same way

Yes, I referenced your photos many times to plan mine out. Super helpful!

 

[2ndgen]

Only I reverse flow the hxc on the hot side so only 100% cold fluid is always going directly to the supercharger and not potentially pulling anything from the hxc

When the 3-way is closed, no matter where the corresponding T is in the line, it's essentially a dead end, and it's equivalent where ever in the flow that T sits. At least as far as I can figure. At worst there's a tiny bit of mixing as it flows past--but I'd wager it's inconsequential.

 

[Unholy707]

I think the fear of accidentally getting zero cooling to the SC is not too hard to deal with. I mean the can go out in the stock config and cause the same issue. The solution is to keep IAT or SC coolant temp up as your extra gauge.

It’s almost impossible to do that unless you don’t plumb the inlet port on the 3 way valve right

 

[Unholy707]

When the 3-way is closed, no matter where the corresponding T is in the line, it's essentially a dead end, and it's equivalent where ever in the flow that T sits. At least as far as I can figure. At worst there's a tiny bit of mixing as it flows past--but I'd wager it's inconsequential.

Yeah, it probably doesn’t make that big of a difference. I always get mine in the high/mid 20s. I’m about to get rid of my AN fittings though for the metal barb fittings IC uses now and sent me (I bought a fittings myself, they were not sort of the kit)I got a bad batch of AN fittings from Vibrant. Nothing but leaks

 

[fubar569]

I believe my scribbles are in that thread too.

Mine is default stock and I have to power on for chiller/aux and power on for drag mode as well. It's either the stock HX/no aux OR chiller & aux together. It doesn't get as cold overall as some Installs but I credit that to the volume of fluid and the fact my freon charge still hasn't been optimized after a track booboo in 2023.