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Another quarter mile run at my "spot"

Magnified

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#1
Years ago with the Hellcat Charger I ran a quarter in this location and got an 11.8 as 122 (DA of 6028). Today, with the Red Eye Challenger, it was 11.6 at 128, DA of 4447. Given we're at half mile altitude here, when I run the numbers through Lucas Racing's equivalence calculator, the Red Eye translated to 11.15 at 133. When I ran the HC through it, it came out to 11.16 at 128.

I can improve the launch (though it is crap west texas high-temp highway mix) but I think the rest of the numbers and the feel of the car show that the real problem is the 3.09 gears. If this was 2.62 I think it would be much easier to modulate on the launch.
 


Unholy707

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#2
Can’t speak to the 2.62 but the 3.09 from a 3.70 improved my 60’ by a 10th
 


2ndAmend

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#3
Can’t speak to the 2.62 but the 3.09 from a 3.70 improved my 60’ by a 10th
Please help us new guys to this, what does this mean? Did you replace a 3.70 with a 3.09? With a A8 or M6?
 


EricG

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#4
I went 10.8@129 at a DA of 6000+, but that was on a drag strip. Most stock regular Hellcats are in the 11.5+ range here in ABQ for reference.
 


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vortecd

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#5
Years ago with the Hellcat Charger I ran a quarter in this location and got an 11.8 as 122 (DA of 6028). Today, with the Red Eye Challenger, it was 11.6 at 128, DA of 4447. Given we're at half mile altitude here, when I run the numbers through Lucas Racing's equivalence calculator, the Red Eye translated to 11.15 at 133. When I ran the HC through it, it came out to 11.16 at 128.

I can improve the launch (though it is crap west texas high-temp highway mix) but I think the rest of the numbers and the feel of the car show that the real problem is the 3.09 gears. If this was 2.62 I think it would be much easier to modulate on the launch.
Put sticky tires on it and go to the track. It amazes me people make pulls on the street and think they will get good times
 


ACMAVRO

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#6
Years ago with the Hellcat Charger I ran a quarter in this location and got an 11.8 as 122 (DA of 6028). Today, with the Red Eye Challenger, it was 11.6 at 128, DA of 4447. Given we're at half mile altitude here, when I run the numbers through Lucas Racing's equivalence calculator, the Red Eye translated to 11.15 at 133. When I ran the HC through it, it came out to 11.16 at 128.

I can improve the launch (though it is crap west texas high-temp highway mix) but I think the rest of the numbers and the feel of the car show that the real problem is the 3.09 gears. If this was 2.62 I think it would be much easier to modulate on the launch.
Those are pretty good times for stock given traction and DA
 


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16GoManGoHC2

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#7
Put sticky tires on it and go to the track. It amazes me people make pulls on the street and think they will get good times
Better tire and track prep definitely help!
I have a pair of 315/50-17 MT Street R’s on Bronze Race Star Recluse rims I’ve been meaning to take pictures of and post. If anybody’s interested in a pair of them, let me know. We could work something out. They netted me the 9.998 1/4 with my M6 Cat. I don’t quarter track the car anymore. I’m only a roll race guy anymore with my cat. It’s hard to be quick with a stick. All I do is ruin shit at the 1/4 track so I’ve been done with that since the last spring outing killed new axles on a wheel hop event.
 


OP
Magnified

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Thread Starter #8
Put sticky tires on it and go to the track. It amazes me people make pulls on the street and think they will get good times
lol, I don't think I'll get good times (you won't) but I am interested in what they are for comparison purposes. And my track is 75 miles away one way. And I have 4 businesses, 3 kids, and a wife. :) And I'm old. So I can't run off to the track like I'd like to. I have considered putting stick um down on the asphalt in some of the less used "spots" but I've never actually done it. There is, now, an event here on the old air base (basically a car show) with no prep racing on 1950s air force concrete. But that's once a year.

Oh, and the 305 R888Rs on the back are a huge improvement. The original rubber was undriveable.
 


OP
Magnified

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Thread Starter #9
Those are pretty good times for stock given traction and DA
For what it is, I was not displeased. I thought it was decent. Now, just more seat time (and maybe swap in 2.62s). I swear I think the thing would be almost perfect with them.

This reminds me. I've switched over to using Track for the trans setting (in the Hellcat I usually used Sport) because in the Redeye I get some kind of bog or pause of on the first upshift, and it took for freaking ever. It does not seem to be as bad in the Sport setting. Anyone else experience this? I thought I remembered there was a some kind of update to the trans program or something?
 


DGatzby

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#10
For what it is, I was not displeased. I thought it was decent. Now, just more seat time (and maybe swap in 2.62s). I swear I think the thing would be almost perfect with them.

This reminds me. I've switched over to using Track for the trans setting (in the Hellcat I usually used Sport) because in the Redeye I get some kind of bog or pause of on the first upshift, and it took for freaking ever. It does not seem to be as bad in the Sport setting. Anyone else experience this? I thought I remembered there was a some kind of update to the trans program or something?
We called it the “hiccup” and it sucks, it and several other shit problems with that particular engine configuration from the factory is fixable with an aftermarket tune.
 


EricG

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#11
Ah yes, the dreaded shift hiccup. Mine did it real bad when I was trying to run 275/40 ET Street SS tires, it is much better for me now with 305/35 Michelin PS4s on 10.5 inch wheels on the rears, hardly ever does it. When I drag race and have 305/45r18 ET Street R's on, it shifts perfectly! I am still running the stock tune fwiw. Early on it was deemed that this is due to extreme pressure build up in the transmission, bigger rubber on the rear seems to be the best solution. I also feel that on the stock tune, you need to run it a few times(no matter the mode) to let the adaptives go to full kill mode and give full power to the driveline.
 


DGatzby

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#12
He must have me blocked, so maybe he sees you Eric.
 


EricG

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#13

DGatzby

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It is cool you got that thing to hook with some rubber and it did not hiccup. Mine sometimes would do that every lap up the BIR straight and we had the big Cup 2’s on it. It was so bad it almost hurt.:devilish:
 


OP
Magnified

Magnified

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Thread Starter #15
We called it the “hiccup” and it sucks, it and several other shit problems with that particular engine configuration from the factory is fixable with an aftermarket tune.
I thought I remembered something about that. How could they leave something like that in the programming? Seems quality and focus was turning to other products....
 


OP
Magnified

Magnified

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Thread Starter #16
He must have me blocked, so maybe he sees you Eric.
lol, why would you say that? I never block anyone. Just not my way.
 


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#17
I thought I remembered something about that. How could they leave something like that in the programming? Seems quality and focus was turning to other products....
Yep. I had a chronic 1-2 shift shit on the streets. Sometimes it did like what you noticed, if you demand it really takes off with an auto downshift, sometimes it just fell flat, Mag. Like I said to Eric, almost every time we road coursed it, it had this hiccup at 3-4 or 2-3 also. Our aftermarket tuners and others apparently knew how to make it all go away. The biggest difference in my aftermarket tune(s)? First one with any “power” added! They remove the problem we are taking about and optimizes/removes that darn Cat Overtemp problem. Until you get into a “tune” I just was a bit more “gentle” with the pedal when asking for a quick acceleration in motion.;)
 




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