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Supercharger Teflon coating

Speedy!

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#81
Came back across this and bumping it up. Great info. Mike's the man.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#82
The strength is in that honey comb a long with cooling though.
Here’s what makes the newer blowers stronger. See in this 2015 to 2017 design the wide open shared chamber area between the valve ports and the SC case body?

49044176-468A-474A-A7B4-ECBFD20C6A71.jpeg

Now see up in the port of this 2018+ blower the added runner that goes from the bottom of the blower to just under the cooling bricks? It is between every port like this on newer blowers. It adds A ton of rigidity and strength to the case to help keep it from flexing out of shape and causing the case to squeeze down on the rotors spinning inside it with only a .003-.004” gap (cold) between the rotors and the case. These “ribs” can be seen in the Forsa video which was on Speedy’s recent SC thread. I’ll post a screen shot of it in next post

AC967BF1-0EBC-4C16-B8E5-6481695EA36D.jpeg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#83
This right here about a minute into the video, Seeing this prompted me to bring this topic up of the difference from older superchargers to the newer ones and why one of the reasons the newer ones last longer and possibly make a bit more power. See the “separators” between each port under where the cooling bricks go? Earlier blowers this area is wide open and the casting material very thin. And this is where the bolts are that hold the SC to the heads are, which is also helping to stabilize and hold the top of the V together.

443CE157-8906-493E-8C6B-D7BED016D60A.png 5E0C762E-1995-4172-B41D-0751D8CCB868.png
 


Speedy!

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#84
So that explains the "intake change" that was made to 2018 and up superchargers and also caused them to see a bit more boost with same pulley size as previous models.
 


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#85
So that explains the "intake change" that was made to 2018 and up superchargers and also caused them to see a bit more boost with same pulley size as previous models.
I was seeing 1.5+ more boost with my pulley combo on my 18. I saw 17 psi on a 2.85 in really good air and over 20 psi on a 2.65.
 


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Thread Starter #86
So for an 18 and up 2.4 what is the going used price for a good one? The 2.7 I think is crazy expensive. 7k used?
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#87
So for an 18 and up 2.4 what is the going used price for a good one? The 2.7 I think is crazy expensive. 7k used?
2.4. 2-2500 complete, 1500-2k blower only

2.7’s can be had for 3-3500 blower only, 4K complete.
 


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#88
Just be sure you know it's a working example. The 2.7L I recently got, you couldn't tell anything was wrong with it from looking. It wasn't until I disassembled that I realized the factory pulley decoupler system had failed and the rear shaft retaining bolt had broken.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#89
Just be sure you know it's a working example. The 2.7L I recently got, you couldn't tell anything was wrong with it from looking. It wasn't until I disassembled that I realized the factory pulley decoupler system had failed and the rear shaft retaining bolt had broken.
Yes, used EVERYTHING is buyer beware!! Remember what ours grandmothers told us, if it sounds too good to be true it usually is lol
 


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#90
Ho
That’s more than the Teflon worn off the rotors, your blower is either knocked out of time or you have bearing issues. The timing on the rotors is not fixed, it’s held in place just like the harmonic balancer is on the crankshaft, clamp load from a left hand thread bolt, now I see why IHI wants a clutch pulley on it. See the shaft to the left of the larger gear, it’s smooth, timing is held in place by a washer!! View attachment 15701 View attachment 15702 View attachment 15703 View attachment 15704
How did you get these bolts out and how’d you get the rotors to stay still while doing so
 


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#91
I think you have to just jam the rotors with a rag.
 


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#92
This right here about a minute into the video, Seeing this prompted me to bring this topic up of the difference from older superchargers to the newer ones and why one of the reasons the newer ones last longer and possibly make a bit more power. See the “separators” between each port under where the cooling bricks go? Earlier blowers this area is wide open and the casting material very thin. And this is where the bolts are that hold the SC to the heads are, which is also helping to stabilize and hold the top of the V together.

View attachment 74027 View attachment 74028
Yep, love my 18 blower
 


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#93
Came back across this and bumping it up. Great info. Mike's the man.
Bloody oath 👍
Been reading through some of @16GoManGoHC2 posts and info all the way from Melbourne, Australia and wow the man's a walking documentary of next level skill and knowledge it's unreal. Definitely would be awesome to have him as a neighbor haha....sorry mate I'm responding to your comment only couple years late.
 


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#94

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#95
Do you know the torq spec on the rotor gear bolts ?....Loctite would help since your there.
Yeah, thanks
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#96
I think you have to just jam the rotors with a rag.
And rag between the gears on the back gear bolts. Remember, the smaller gears bolt is left hand thread. But lossen the big gears bolt first as it’s a press fit on the shaft, the little gear once the bolt is loose it’s now loose on the shaft, that’s the one held in place by the little ring only.
 


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#97
And rag between the gears on the back gear bolts. Remember, the smaller gears bolt is left hand thread. But lossen the big gears bolt first as it’s a press fit on the shaft, the little gear once the bolt is loose it’s now loose on the shaft, that’s the one held in place by the little ring only.
But just to loosen or torque down the bolt on the female coupler on the front plate, is jamming the rotors enough or also need to open the rear and jam those gears too?
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#98
But just to loosen or torque down the bolt on the female coupler on the front plate, is jamming the rotors enough or also need to open the rear and jam those gears too?
Best to just jam the rotor the bolt is in, that way no chance of disturbing timing, jam rotor to alignment guide in the bottom inlet area of SC housing.
 


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#99
Rotors look pretty when they're naked out of the case.

What's the coating on them?
 


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Rotors look pretty when they're naked out of the case.

What's the coating on them?
Teflon I think
 




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