Wheel stud replacement

[DRAGRCR]

Drove them around for a good while, i thought they where connected at they read 32 psi when 35 was in them but then went blank after about 10 mikes and never came back. Put the Nitto’s on and it read them before I left the drive way. There’s 8 of them in my garage pretty close to the car, 2 fronts which are original, 2 on original rims with 275 MT Street SS on them, 2 in the replica Nitto rims and these 2 new ones in the race stars. That was my thought too, take them to where I had them mounted and see if they get a reading from them. They where brand new, do they have to have a tab pulled on them to connect their battery or any thing??

OEM ones are plug and play. No fooling with a battery etc. When you had the 32 reading that is the last known good reading. It will lock in for a while while the systems waits for a signal. After so long it will sound the alarm. The ones sitting in the garage should not cause a problem once these new ones link up. Think another mopar parked next to it in the garage. They would be getting constantly confused if that was the case.

 

[coolblue]

Gonna sound off the wall and stupid (but hey that's me sometimes) LOL but I was having same problem as you, and did this, and it worked. Bring car to end of driveway and out of range of everything. Take the tire/wheel off car and bring it way away from car and out of range. Take the valve out and let tire pressure go to ZERO. Put back on car at zero and fill to your preferred tire pressure while on car. Drive car for a short distance and time (mine read within 2-3miles and like 5min).
I had this problem for two weeks and looked up every "fix" on line and none worked. Most were "just drive 15min or 15miles" and it should read. None worked. I changed pressure up/down on car, still nothing. Drove me crazy.
I hatched this plan on my own, thinking "hey, how could I bring something new to the system that would wake up the computer to a totally new component". Well it must've done it because I can assure you, this worked for me. Hope this helps.
MERRY CHRISTMAS.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I’ll probably throw them in my truck and have the dealer scan them and make sure they are alive first and if the are give that a whirl

MERRY CHRISTMAS to you and yours as well, and to all out there in Hellcat land as well!!

 

[DRAGRCR]

Gonna sound off the wall and stupid (but hey that's me sometimes) LOL but I was having same problem as you, and did this, and it worked. Bring car to end of driveway and out of range of everything. Take the tire/wheel off car and bring it way away from car and out of range. Take the valve out and let tire pressure go to ZERO. Put back on car at zero and fill to your preferred tire pressure while on car. Drive car for a short distance and time (mine read within 2-3miles and like 5min).
I had this problem for two weeks and looked up every "fix" on line and none worked. Most were "just drive 15min or 15miles" and it should read. None worked. I changed pressure up/down on car, still nothing. Drove me crazy.
I hatched this plan on my own, thinking "hey, how could I bring something new to the system that would wake up the computer to a totally new component". Well it must've done it because I can assure you, this worked for me. Hope this helps.
MERRY CHRISTMAS.

You may have a point here. I think the sensor reports differently if a tire is low or flat. Might be worth a try. @16GoManGoHC2 I would lower one tire down to 20 PSI and drive easy on it for a few blocks. Do one at a time.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Be a while before their back on the car, unless we get some good rains and wash this crap off the roads and I can get a 50 F pavement temp I’m not going to be testing the 17”s until they have a chance to hook. They are a track day set up, I put TPMS’s in them for 2 reasons, mainly the full metal stems but also to be able to see where their at at a glance just in case of picking up a screw or nail you can see somethings funny with them while driving around. Someday I’ll either get them to connect or replace them with next tire change.

 

[fumanchu182]

I don't to want to resurrect a sleeping thread but I am about to go about this endeavor with the dorman lugs. How tough was it to get the hub off? I have E sockets so I'm not worried about it but is there room if it is on a quick jack?

 

[fumanchu182]

Finally got to the spacers, went back to stock wheels cause even with 305s they rubbed. Plenty of space. Meaured depth of the stud with spacer then went and measures depth of stock lugs to see if they would seat right. Very happy with the Dorman lugs. 315s are on their way and will get those on next. Since the lugs Im using on the D5s are open, don’t have to worry about meauring for those.

 

[Mean Cat]

View attachment 62346 View attachment 62347 View attachment 62348 View attachment 62349
Finally got to the spacers, went back to stock wheels cause even with 305s they rubbed. Plenty of space. Meaured depth of the stud with spacer then went and measures depth of stock lugs to see if they would seat right. Very happy with the Dorman lugs. 315s are on their way and will get those on next. Since the lugs Im using on the D5s are open, don’t have to worry about meauring for those.

how wide is the spacer ?...looks like 1/2"

315's are ya ?

 

[SilverBillet]

These correct? ARP on right, Stock from the dealer on left, they correct? Shoulder is shorter, will they work??
View attachment 8566

I would not use a different configuration. Even the rounded end looks like crap. Probably made in China!

 

[fumanchu182]

how wide is the spacer ?...looks like 1/2"

315's are ya ?

Spacer is 12mm, tad under .5”. 12.7mm
Is .5 on the nose. 315s were what I tried last year but because of the backspacing of the D5s they rubbed. Right now I have 305s on that rubbed previously and now they are not rubbing. Very happy.

 

[Diboblo]

Spacer is 12mm, tad under .5”. 12.7mm
Is .5 on the nose. 315s were what I tried last year but because of the backspacing of the D5s they rubbed. Right now I have 305s on that rubbed previously and now they are not rubbing. Very happy.

Nice work, brother.

Let's go, Brandon!

 

[Mean Cat]

Spacer is 12mm, tad under .5”. 12.7mm
Is .5 on the nose. 315s were what I tried last year but because of the backspacing of the D5s they rubbed. Right now I have 305s on that rubbed previously and now they are not rubbing. Very happy.

I beat in the inner fender wells so my 315's don't rub but they are close.

 

[fumanchu182]

I beat in the inner fender wells so my 315's don't rub but they are close.

Did that as well but the D5s have really shaklow offset.

 

[Mean Cat]

Did that as well but the D5s have really shaklow offset.

That's what I have, D5's 17x10

 

[fumanchu182]

That's what I have, D5's 17x10

Beadlock or non beadlock, I'm running beadlocks.

 

[Mean Cat]

Beadlock or non beadlock, I'm running beadlocks.

Non, so with bead lock they bow out more ?

 

[fumanchu182]

From the website, they have an ET (fancy german term for offset) of 30. It took me some mental gymnastics to wrap my head around this. Positive ET values mean the wheel will sit deeper in the wheel arch where negative ET values mean the wheels will be shallower in the wheel arch. To compare a RaceStar 92 Bracket Racer (in black) for Hellcat's according to the catalog has an offset of 22.5. Of note, ET is measured in MM. This is not to be confused with the term back space which is the distance from the mounting surface to the brake side of the wheel. With the 12mm spacer I am changing the effective ET to be 18mm which pushes the wheel further out from the wheel arch. This should be further than the "poverty starts" which many users have reported that 315's with those wheels will not rub.

 

[fumanchu182]

Non, so with bead lock they bow out more ?

Forgot to tag in the post above ^^^^^^