"potato chip" look on beadlocks?

[SublimeIsLife]

I hired a company to mount and balance my weld beadlock wheels. Zohr was recommended by a local speed shop in my area.

They got them on, then I decided to read the instructions Weld provides with their wheels. Mentions something about the potato chip look or it wont hold the tires properly. Anyone know what that means? I took a pic of the ring, the spaces in between the bolts make me worry now.

EDIT: Found out that the bolts need to be torqued to 38lbs in sequence, but they're only ay 18lbs currently. Could that be the issue I'm seeing? There's also air in the tires currently, can the bolts be torqued down more with the air in or do they need to be deflated?

 

[Decay]

Did you see this tech sheet?

 

[Decay]

 

[Decay]

I assume the "potato chip look" may refer to bent lock rings?

 

[SublimeIsLife]

I assume the "potato chip look" may refer to bent lock rings?

That's what I'm assuming as well. I've never owned beadlocks before, so I dont know if what I'm looking at in the pic means it's bent or if it it's because it's not fastened enough. It's like that all the way around on both wheels

And yeah, I saw the tech sheet. I gave the directions to the guy that did the work, but my dumb ass nor him bothered to look on the other side of the page for the rest of the instructions

 

[Decay]

That's what I'm assuming as well. I've never owned beadlocks before, so I dont know if what I'm looking at in the pic means it's bent or if it it's because it's not fastened enough. It's like that all the way around on both wheels

And yeah, I saw the tech sheet. I gave the directions to the guy that did the work, but my dumb ass nor him bothered to look on the other side of the page for the rest of the instructions

I bought the Forgestars and I had to pry this info out of them!
The Weld folks are way better at providing info.
It's going to be interesting once I start running these in earnest.
I would assume that this isn't rocket science, I mean, it's a tire on a wheel fer cryin out loud!
I am going to be driving on these to and (hopefully) back from the track which is a 100 miles each way so I plan to do some test runs here in town just to see how this set up works.

 

[motorhead]

Respectfully this is why average people don't need racecar parts. Look before you leap.

 

[HRJ]

Respectfully this is why average people don't need racecar parts. Look before you leap.

Bruh..

 

[SublimeIsLife]

Got the issue resolved. Getting the torque sequences done closed the gaps and all is well.

Too easy with the quarter method

Respectfully this is why average people don't need racecar parts. Look before you leap.

Gotta learn somehow, right?

 

[Marc W]

“Average people”? Lol. Jeez. First off there’s nothing all race car about bead lock wheels. Hell, I had them on my Jeep for playing in the dunes and rock climbing. Anybody that’s running air pressure low enough to be a issue Iike turning the wheel inside the tire needs bead locks. Yes there are other ways to deal with that particular problem (to a degree) but bead locks are really very easy. The one thing that’s important is tightening the ring in a very even and equal manor. It’s not rocket science. Make sure the bead of the tire is centered on the wheel and do a very gradual tightening of the first four bolts in a cross pattern. Start adding more bolts four at a time and keep the tightening sequence in a cross cross pattern. The idea is to very gradually compress the bead evenly around the wheel equally and GRADUALLY. This is not a hard thing to do. It just takes a long time. I probably put the wrench on each of those bolts 20 times before the proper torque number is reached on all of them. One of the things you will see if you do this yourself is that ring will be visibly bending as you start compressing the bead. I go about two lbs with each bolt once the actual compression starts and do it over and over and over. I was advised by some people who actually make custom bead lock wheels to inflate the tire to 35 lbs after the ring is torqued and then let the wheel sit for 24 hours, because the bead is going to continue to compress some. Then..... deflate the tire and re-torque to the required number again. At that point you’re done. One last thing..... I would never trust a tire shop to do this.

 

[Decay]

I assembled/disassembled a couple of times til I got it right.
I was out in the shop freezing my ass off and finally moved into the house and the heat actually made the whole process a lot less difficult and I was able to seat the bead correctly and get the lock ring evenly applied.
I used the "quarter" method also.
I need to do a few launches on them and re torque then should be GOOD TO GO!

 

[Geo1]

Respectfully this is why average people don't need racecar parts. Look before you leap.

Blocked.