Opinions on a 2016 Challenger

[rhino2104]

What's everyone's opinion on this Challenger? 2016, M6, TorRed, under 600 miles (not a typo). Not a fan of the graphics on the side, but that's easily fixed. I may even be able to get the dealer to remove them.

Is the A8 really that great over the M6? I can go either way on that. I would prefer a 2017+ so I could have Android Auto, but I can always get a phone mount like I've had in the past too.

https://www.sewell.com/VehicleDetai...nger-2dr_Cpe_SRT_Hellcat-Austin-TX/4749720713

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[GdBye]

Looks nice although the rear decal isn't my taste either. I'm sure it can be removed with a heat gun by a pro. If it were me, I would want the full story on the car because of the low miles. That would mean prior owners contact info, carfax, etc. Not sure what they are asking for it?

 

[rhino2104]

Looks nice although the rear decal isn't my taste either. I'm sure it can be removed with a heat gun by a pro. If it were me, I would want the full story on the car because of the low miles. That would mean prior owners contact info, carfax, etc. Not sure what they are asking for it?

I'm going to see if I can get that info when I look at it. My suspicion is someone bought it and parked it (obviously) and the owner passed away, a divorce forced the sale, or they traded into something more family friendly at the urging of their significant other. They're asking $51,995. I also plan on insisting on an extended warranty because I know some 2016s had SC bearing issues and 560 miles isn't necessarily enough for them to show up.

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[1971demon]

I'm going to see if I can get that info when I look at it. My suspicion is someone bought it and parked it (obviously) and the owner passed away, a divorce forced the sale, or they traded into something more family friendly at the urging of their significant other. They're asking $51,995. I also plan on insisting on an extended warranty because I know some 2016s had SC bearing issues and 560 miles isn't necessarily enough for them to show up.

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The A8 is faster (track purpose)...the M6..is tons more fun (I own both)...I'd rather have an afternoon of fun with an M6..than cover a 1/4 mile .03 seconds faster...

 

[rhino2104]

The A8 is faster (track purpose)...the M6..is tons more fun (I own both)...I'd rather have an afternoon of fun with an M6..than cover a 1/4 mile .03 seconds faster...

That's honestly what I was thinking. My last fun car was a Focus ST. Not fast, but fun as all hell in the twisties. They only came in a 6 speed manual. I loved the fact that it was a theft deterrent too. I'm not getting one to race, I'm getting one to drive. I've just heard how great the A8 is. Maybe I'll start including them in my searches now instead of just writing them off. How does the clutch hold up? I've heard reports they are a bit light for 700+hp.

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[Slowpoke387]

That's honestly what I was thinking. My last fun car was a Focus ST. Not fast, but fun as all hell in the twisties. They only came in a 6 speed manual. I loved the fact that it was a theft deterrent too. I'm not getting one to race, I'm getting one to drive. I've just heard how great the A8 is. Maybe I'll start including them in my searches now instead of just writing them off. How does the clutch hold up? I've heard reports they are a bit light for 700+hp.

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Drive both before you choose. The A8 isnt your typical boring automatic. The manual shift mode is really good and obviously in traffic it’s a lot better too. It really is the best of both worlds. The A8 isnt all about racing.

 

[ACMAVRO]

I think it looks good. Dealer should have done a full detail before taking those pics. If your not going to mod it, I agree to get the extended warranty.

 

[moparjim]

The A8 is faster (track purpose)...the M6..is tons more fun (I own both)...I'd rather have an afternoon of fun with an M6..than cover a 1/4 mile .03 seconds faster...

LOL.. it's a way bigger difference than that.
I get it though.

 

[MJS73]

Someone on another forum was interested in this car and went to see it. They reported the following:

• The Hood's liner was ripped pretty bad just behind where the coolant cap is located. I noticed a real small nut that had been removed and put back on there as well. My assumption is a catch can but felt like that would be an odd location for one. Is this a common area for the hood liner to be ripped (about 3-4 inch long and 2 inches wide).
• Car pulled pretty heavy to the left which seems odd for a car with only 560 miles. I know alignments can be off on new cars so not super concerned there but would need to investigate further.
• Car had a fairly good vibration at 50-55 mpg. My guess is minor flat spots in the tires but not real sure.
• Now the main concern as I have zero clue about these. I brought my scanner with me and pulled the engine and ABS codes. Sales guy said in 30 years that was a first. Was surprised, is that not normal? Anyway, I do that as I know not all issue trigger a check engine light. The Engine came back clean and most importantly every thing was ready so I know they didn't just pull the battery to hide something (again not expected on a 560 mile car anyways) but the ABS system has 4 codes. Here are the codes and what I found via search on what they are:
• U0401 - Stands for Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM. ... The engine control module (ECM) receives input from sensors throughout the vehicle.
• C212A - The OBDII code is set when the System Voltage is below or above threshold expected.
• C2100 - The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module monitors the Battery Voltage. The ABS Module sets the OBDII code it detects system voltage is below 7.5 volts.
• C2101 - The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module monitors the Battery Voltage. The ABS Module sets the OBDII code it detects system voltage is above 17 volts.

 

[moparjim]

That's honestly what I was thinking. My last fun car was a Focus ST. Not fast, but fun as all hell in the twisties. They only came in a 6 speed manual. I loved the fact that it was a theft deterrent too. I'm not getting one to race, I'm getting one to drive. I've just heard how great the A8 is. Maybe I'll start including them in my searches now instead of just writing them off. How does the clutch hold up? I've heard reports they are a bit light for 700+hp.

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One of the things about the A8 is that you can do is change the settings. It gives the car 3 different feels to go along with the other changes.
Reasons I didn't go with the M6.
1- The A8 is a fair bit quicker.
2- This is the most important one and that is the clutch. The aftermarket good clutches are so expensive in Canada.
3- I was selling a project car and didn't want to replace it with something I would likely have a big repair on.

 

[rhino2104]

Someone on another forum was interested in this car and went to see it. They reported the following:

• The Hood's liner was ripped pretty bad just behind where the coolant cap is located. I noticed a real small nut that had been removed and put back on there as well. My assumption is a catch can but felt like that would be an odd location for one. Is this a common area for the hood liner to be ripped (about 3-4 inch long and 2 inches wide).
• Car pulled pretty heavy to the left which seems odd for a car with only 560 miles. I know alignments can be off on new cars so not super concerned there but would need to investigate further.
• Car had a fairly good vibration at 50-55 mpg. My guess is minor flat spots in the tires but not real sure.
• Now the main concern as I have zero clue about these. I brought my scanner with me and pulled the engine and ABS codes. Sales guy said in 30 years that was a first. Was surprised, is that not normal? Anyway, I do that as I know not all issue trigger a check engine light. The Engine came back clean and most importantly every thing was ready so I know they didn't just pull the battery to hide something (again not expected on a 560 mile car anyways) but the ABS system has 4 codes. Here are the codes and what I found via search on what they are:
• U0401 - Stands for Invalid Data Received from ECM/PCM. ... The engine control module (ECM) receives input from sensors throughout the vehicle.
• C212A - The OBDII code is set when the System Voltage is below or above threshold expected.
• C2100 - The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module monitors the Battery Voltage. The ABS Module sets the OBDII code it detects system voltage is below 7.5 volts.
• C2101 - The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module monitors the Battery Voltage. The ABS Module sets the OBDII code it detects system voltage is above 17 volts.

Thanks for that info. I just found that thread. The codes sound like a battery issue. Probably just hasn't been driven enough to clear them out after the battery was replaced. I'd still have it checked though. One of my concerns is the vibration and pulling. Both can he explained by tires, but both could be something bigger too. I may go check it out tomorrow and see if it is still a problem.

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[1971demon]

Thanks for that info. I just found that thread. The codes sound like a battery issue. Probably just hasn't been driven enough to clear them out after the battery was replaced. I'd still have it checked though. One of my concerns is the vibration and pulling. Both can he explained by tires, but both could be something bigger too. I may go check it out tomorrow and see if it is still a problem.

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well sounds like all the homework has been done on this cat...tires could be the problem..low miles notwithstanding...the tires are 6 years old...

 

[HellcatMatt]

More than likely the tires on that car. Stock tires aren't great anyway and probably being original, I would plan on replacing them if you buy it.

I have a manual car- I love it and its really fun to drive (especially now with 950whp). I did drive the a8 as well and it IS significantly faster by the seat of the pants and in the numbers. The a8 trans is really great and still has a lot of fun-factor to it. Of course its not as engaging as the 6spd. The tough part of the manual cars is getting them off the line quickly. The tall first gear (2.26) combined with a heavy 4500lb car on narrow, sub-par tires makes it quite underwhelming stock. As far as the clutch, they are just fine for street duty. Its if you race with drag radials and try and launch the car hard that eats them up. Again, the gearing and weight play into this.

If you want a stick car, that looks like a fine example that likely wasn't abused (or very little, lol). It may have a few minor issues from sitting but should be easily fixed. Do you plan on modding or leaving it stock?

 

[Hunter]

If you don't want decals, see if dealership can remove.
The cars I have seen that had decals on for a while before being removed, we're very noticeable ( as to the fact that it used to have decals.
That being said, I had a 16 and loved it.
Make sure to get an extended warranty and GAP.

 

[1971demon]

If you don't want decals, see if dealership can remove.
The cars I have seen that had decals on for a while before being removed, we're very noticeable ( as to the fact that it used to have decals.
That being said, I had a 16 and loved it.
Make sure to get an extended warranty and GAP.

And above all..use Cautious enthusiasm on Holidays...

 

[Hunter]

And above all..use Cautious enthusiasm on Holidays...

Middle finger emoji......

 

[1971demon]

Middle finger emoji......

The gap..was what got ya

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

That's honestly what I was thinking. My last fun car was a Focus ST. Not fast, but fun as all hell in the twisties. They only came in a 6 speed manual. I loved the fact that it was a theft deterrent too. I'm not getting one to race, I'm getting one to drive. I've just heard how great the A8 is. Maybe I'll start including them in my searches now instead of just writing them off. How does the clutch hold up? I've heard reports they are a bit light for 700+hp.

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I have a 16 M6, 850 wheel for 9000 miles, clutch held up well even with track duty on 315/50-17 Street R’s. Best pass a 9.998. C CB lurch was happy until I went corn, slipped hitting forth on a cold cool night and I’m pulling it it’s done, it’s down to it’s wear limit. I have both a new stock replacement and a McCleod RXT1200HD and a mixed yet which to install. But my tranny is a 2.98 first, 2.10 second unit which is much easier on the clutch off the line,It’s probably why it lasted so long.

 

[rhino2104]

well sounds like all the homework has been done on this cat...tires could be the problem..low miles notwithstanding...the tires are 6 years old...

6 years old and have been sitting with a car on them for 5 without really moving.

More than likely the tires on that car. Stock tires aren't great anyway and probably being original, I would plan on replacing them if you buy it.

I have a manual car- I love it and its really fun to drive (especially now with 950whp). I did drive the a8 as well and it IS significantly faster by the seat of the pants and in the numbers. The a8 trans is really great and still has a lot of fun-factor to it. Of course its not as engaging as the 6spd. The tough part of the manual cars is getting them off the line quickly. The tall first gear (2.26) combined with a heavy 4500lb car on narrow, sub-par tires makes it quite underwhelming stock. As far as the clutch, they are just fine for street duty. Its if you race with drag radials and try and launch the car hard that eats them up. Again, the gearing and weight play into this.

If you want a stick car, that looks like a fine example that likely wasn't abused (or very little, lol). It may have a few minor issues from sitting but should be easily fixed. Do you plan on modding or leaving it stock?

It'll be stock for a quite a while I'm sure. As of right now I have no plans to mod any one I get in the near future. Down the line? Maybe. I'm sure I'll want some extra kick down the line, but right now 700+hp will suffice.

If you don't want decals, see if dealership can remove.
The cars I have seen that had decals on for a while before being removed, we're very noticeable ( as to the fact that it used to have decals.
That being said, I had a 16 and loved it.
Make sure to get an extended warranty and GAP.

That was my plan. See if the dealership will remove them for me. I suspect that it being so low mileage and stored indoors (assuming) that there won't be much difference between the paint that is covered by the decal and the paint that isn't.

 

[72 440 Barracuda]

What's everyone's opinion on this Challenger? 2016, M6, TorRed, under 600 miles (not a typo). Not a fan of the graphics on the side, but that's easily fixed. I may even be able to get the dealer to remove them.

Is the A8 really that great over the M6? I can go either way on that. I would prefer a 2017+ so I could have Android Auto, but I can always get a phone mount like I've had in the past too.

https://www.sewell.com/VehicleDetai...nger-2dr_Cpe_SRT_Hellcat-Austin-TX/4749720713

Sent from my motorola edge plus using Tapatalk

This is similar to what I purchased - I have a Black '15 M6 with about 3500 miles (in 2019) that I purchased a couple years ago. I love the manual, but not the best option if racing is on your mind. Sounds like thats not a priority for you and its not for me either, although I like to race occasionally and have run a best of 11.68, but driving a manual car with some real hp is something I have always wanted and the M6 fills that spot perfectly.
Something I did before buying was have the dealer put it on a lift so I could inspect for things that were out of place - like paint mismatches or overspray indicating past wrecks or after market parts or damage. As far as I could tell the car was 100% stock and was in perfect shape so I bought it. The SC was a concern and I did purchase a warranty (above and beyond the remaining factory warranty). I do not regret buying it, so I would say do everything you can to validate it is what is being presented and if so go for it... Good Luck!!!