DIRS install

[vortecd]

I had the basic diff brace on the car when I bought it from SilverBillet. Thought I would updrade to the Per4ormance DIRS brace. I first removed the old brace and noticed something. The DIRS supplies new lower bolts but mine were gone! I bought the 3.09's before I even bought the Hellcat and didn't notice the bolts were missing. I sent Mike a text with a pic and he says WTH!. He had bought it new and also didn't notice. You can tell there has never has been bolts there, well now there is. They supply bolts if the cradle is threaded and larger ones with inserts if it is not. My '16 is threaded (speedy said his '16 wasn't) think it may have been hit or miss in '16. By '17 they were not. I thought about drilling them out but it is like a nut is in there so you would have to drill a pretty big hole to get it out of there so the insert would go in. I don't see those ARP bolts breaking so I used the smaller ones. After bolting the back plate on tightening the upper bolts to 90 ft lbs and the lower to 42 ft lbs I started the front piece where the big center bolt would go in. I know some have said they had a hell of a time getting that started. I must have done something wrong since everything lined up. Actually went very smooth The 2 smaller bolts that go into the cradle are torqued to 28 ft lbs (the larger with inserts to 42 ft lbs) and the big center bolt to 90 ft lbs

I also have their front diff brace on the car. I installed it back in March when I put the 3.09's in. I noticed the rubber bumper that goes between it and the diff was about to fall out. I loosened the bolts so I could drop the brace down some. The diffs have a ridge in the middle and I don't think it sits good there. I made a notch in the rubber piece so hopefully it stays in place. I had some extra heat reflective material so I wrapped it around it

 

[fumanchu182]

I had the basic diff brace on the car when I bought it from SilverBillet. Thought I would updrade to the Per4ormance DIRS brace. I first removed the old brace and noticed something. The DIRS supplies new lower bolts but mine were gone! I bought the 3.09's before I even bought the Hellcat and didn't notice the bolts were missing. I sent Mike a text with a pic and he says WTH!. He had bought it new and also didn't notice. You can tell there has never has been bolts there, well now there is. They supply bolts if the cradle is threaded and larger ones with inserts if it is not. My '16 is threaded (speedy said his '16 wasn't) think it may have been hit or miss in '16. By '17 they were not. I thought about drilling them out but it is like a nut is in there so you would have to drill a pretty big hole to get it out of there so the insert would go in. I don't see those ARP bolts breaking so I used the smaller ones. After bolting the back plate on tightening the upper bolts to 90 ft lbs and the lower to 42 ft lbs I started the front piece where the big center bolt would go in. I know some have said they had a hell of a time getting that started. I must have done something wrong since everything lined up. Actually went very smooth The 2 smaller bolts that go into the cradle are torqued to 28 ft lbs (the larger with inserts to 42 ft lbs) and the big center bolt to 90 ft lbs

I also have their front diff brace on the car. I installed it back in March when I put the 3.09's in. I noticed the rubber bumper that goes between it and the diff was about to fall out. I loosened the bolts so I could drop the brace down some. The diffs have a ridge in the middle and I don't think it sits good there. I made a notch in the rubber piece so hopefully it stays in place. I had some extra heat reflective material so I wrapped it around it

View attachment 48739 View attachment 48740 View attachment 48741 View attachment 48742 View attachment 48743 View attachment 48744 View attachment 48745 View attachment 48746

I had to drill one of mine out. Then dremmel the nut.



Used a 1/2 inch bit.

 

[vortecd]

I had to drill one of mine out. Then dremmel the nut.


View attachment 48753 View attachment 48754 View attachment 48755
Used a 1/2 inch bit.

Threads were all good. My thought was it isn't broke so leave it alone

 

[jonx96]

Go look at your old thread of the install. Looks like they were missing from day 1. Can’t believe none of us caught it.

 

[DGatzby]

That looked like a PIA afternoon that should have taken about an hour. Sort of happened to me yesterday. I moved the hoses of my QuickJack too much apparently, so when I lifted the car the first time yesterday I had fluid on my garage floor and problems! About an hour penalty time for cleanup, figure out what I did wrong, fix it, fill with fluid, then finally get to the oil change that should take an hour or less.

 

[coolblue]

I had the basic diff brace on the car when I bought it from SilverBillet. Thought I would updrade to the Per4ormance DIRS brace. I first removed the old brace and noticed something. The DIRS supplies new lower bolts but mine were gone! I bought the 3.09's before I even bought the Hellcat and didn't notice the bolts were missing. I sent Mike a text with a pic and he says WTH!. He had bought it new and also didn't notice. You can tell there has never has been bolts there, well now there is. They supply bolts if the cradle is threaded and larger ones with inserts if it is not. My '16 is threaded (speedy said his '16 wasn't) think it may have been hit or miss in '16. By '17 they were not. I thought about drilling them out but it is like a nut is in there so you would have to drill a pretty big hole to get it out of there so the insert would go in. I don't see those ARP bolts breaking so I used the smaller ones. After bolting the back plate on tightening the upper bolts to 90 ft lbs and the lower to 42 ft lbs I started the front piece where the big center bolt would go in. I know some have said they had a hell of a time getting that started. I must have done something wrong since everything lined up. Actually went very smooth The 2 smaller bolts that go into the cradle are torqued to 28 ft lbs (the larger with inserts to 42 ft lbs) and the big center bolt to 90 ft lbs

I also have their front diff brace on the car. I installed it back in March when I put the 3.09's in. I noticed the rubber bumper that goes between it and the diff was about to fall out. I loosened the bolts so I could drop the brace down some. The diffs have a ridge in the middle and I don't think it sits good there. I made a notch in the rubber piece so hopefully it stays in place. I had some extra heat reflective material so I wrapped it around it

View attachment 48739 View attachment 48740 View attachment 48741 View attachment 48742 View attachment 48743 View attachment 48744 View attachment 48745 View attachment 48746

I am one of the ones who had a hell of a time lining up the the big bolt. I have a redeye and the cradle has an overlap seam and a weld right where the upper brace mounts. Between the overlap, the weld, and the upper brace gasket the bolt was miss-aligned at least 3/16" of an inch maybe more. Only options I could see was grinding the cradle smooth or cutting a long deep groove along the top of the upper brace for clearance. Left ot off for now.

 

[vortecd]

I am one of the ones who had a hell of a time lining up the the big bolt. I have a redeye and the cradle has an overlap seam and a weld right where the upper brace mounts. Between the overlap, the weld, and the upper brace gasket the bolt was miss-aligned at least 3/16" of an inch maybe more. Only options I could see was grinding the cradle smooth or cutting a long deep groove along the top of the upper brace for clearance. Left ot off for now.

yeah speedy pointed that out that some later one's have that weld so I could see that being an issue. Speedy and racer x both had '16's like me and had issues where I didn't. It did appear racer x may have had weld on his and he also had the threaded version which he snapped the bolts off from his first brace which it why he installed the DIRS. They drilled it out and used the bigger bolts

 

[vortecd]

Go look at your old thread of the install. Looks like they were missing from day 1. Can’t believe none of us caught it.

Like I said there would be no way they all would fall out. More surprised NODODY noticed

 

[vortecd]

That looked like a PIA afternoon that should have taken about an hour. Sort of happened to me yesterday. I moved the hoses of my QuickJack too much apparently, so when I lifted the car the first time yesterday I had fluid on my garage floor and problems! About an hour penalty time for cleanup, figure out what I did wrong, fix it, fill with fluid, then finally get to the oil change that should take an hour or less.

Actually wasn't no big deal. New brace went right on and the front was just a tweak. Sounds like you had a way bigger issue then I did

 

[coolblue]

They drilled it out and used the bigger bolts

That doesn't help me. I wanted a MAGIC ANSWERE that would solve my problem. . Oh well. Time to get the grinder and the big hammer out!

 

[vortecd]

That doesn't help me. I wanted a MAGIC ANSWERE that would solve my problem. . Oh well. Time to get the grinder and the big hammer out!

I would start with grinding the weld down then hammer time. See you already have the answers

 

[cobrakid]

...just my personal FYI contribution...
I used dental floss (I think Speedy recommended) and that really helped get those inserts started, and
as I was doing it, . . .I was thinking, there is no way I would try installing with that. (the floss)
Got my front part of the brace on just yesterday, "rear big part" was done last month on floor.
anyway, I had to take my passenger side exhaust valve actuator out to get the bolt out, that was crappy, and
I was worried it wouldn't function correctly when I put it back in. Seemed ok this morning when I drove to work though.

Good Luck, as it is an expensive piece, but well worth it in my book.....I had the original old style on my 2016 Charger HC,
and never had a problem with rear. I definately don't want any problems with my Demon-like Super Stock.

 

[vortecd]

...just my personal FYI contribution...
I used dental floss (I think Speedy recommended) and that really helped get those inserts started, and
as I was doing it, . . .I was thinking, there is no way I would try installing with that. (the floss)
Got my front part of the brace on just yesterday, "rear big part" was done last month on floor.
anyway, I had to take my passenger side exhaust valve actuator out to get the bolt out, that was crappy, and
I was worried it wouldn't function correctly when I put it back in. Seemed ok this morning when I drove to work though.

Good Luck, as it is an expensive piece, but well worth it in my book.....I had the original old style on my 2016 Charger HC,
and never had a problem with rear. I definately don't want any problems with my Demon-like Super Stock.

I did the diff, driveshaft and axles along with the front diff brace at the same time so my exhaust was off. Crazy how the exhaust is in the way

 

[stonewall]

I bought the first style brace. And it's still in the box.

 

[Hunter]

...just my personal FYI contribution...
I used dental floss (I think Speedy recommended) and that really helped get those inserts started, and
as I was doing it, . . .I was thinking, there is no way I would try installing with that. (the floss)
Got my front part of the brace on just yesterday, "rear big part" was done last month on floor.
anyway, I had to take my passenger side exhaust valve actuator out to get the bolt out, that was crappy, and
I was worried it wouldn't function correctly when I put it back in. Seemed ok this morning when I drove to work though.

Good Luck, as it is an expensive piece, but well worth it in my book.....I had the original old style on my 2016 Charger HC,
and never had a problem with rear. I definately don't want any problems with my Demon-like Super Stock.

@cobrakid
Welcome to the family.

 

[fumanchu182]

This thread reminded me of something on my honey to do list. Drill out the other welded nut and grind down the weld.

on my 2015 it had the weld:


Clean with acetone, k and paint:




Tidy it up, sits a lot better on the cross member:

 

[coolblue]

This thread reminded me of something on my honey to do list. Drill out the other welded nut and grind down the weld.

on my 2015 it had the weld:
View attachment 50996

Clean with acetone, k and paint:
View attachment 50998

View attachment 50997

Tidy it up, sits a lot better on the cross member:
View attachment 50999

Nicely done! I chose to relieve the hole on the frame/back brace with porting tools and leave the frame unmolested for now.

 

[coolblue]

Hey BTW, has anyone noticed more NVH with the DIRS brace? When I first put my brace on and 'clearanced' the rear main bolt hole, the shank and threaded portion were just making it through the hole. Torqued it all together and took it out for a spin. On sharp, hard, tight left, and right turns (rally style) I was getting a weird noise (it def wasn't there before the brace). I took brace apart and yep, sure enough there were marks where the bolt shank and threads were touching on the sides of the hole in the rear frame brace. I 'clearanced' a little more until the bolt absolutely and freely went through with no scraping or touching at all. Put back together, torqued everything up, and zero NVH from the brace.