Active Interchiller Feedback

[OGTRIPLEOG]

Hey all. Longtime reader of the forum..
Shop is installing this kit on my trackhawk, this is the one made by Dave Spurlock. Shop has run into the following issue, pictures attached.

The fittings on at least two of the hoses won’t articulate with the hardware they’re intended for due to the directions/angles of respective connection points.

Mr Spurlock recommended we use a vice to bend the fitting to get it to articulate with the port coming off the chiller.
Anyone installed this kit before, did you run into this and were you able to bend the fittings?

 

[Unholy707]

No clue, didn’t know anyone actually received any of the kits they paid for with this brand

 

[Unholy707]

Sell it and get an IC Chiller.

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

Sell it and get an IC Chiller.

Right.. I considered myself lucky at the time, if you call todays findings lucky. Mine was at my doorstep in record time, 2 weeks from purchase. This was fall 2023.

IC didn’t have enough press on the trackhawk platform at the time, so I was choosing between FI and active. I wasn’t gonna touch FI with all the stories and feedback there.

Vehicle is at Satera, they use IC on their builds. Unfortunately, already had this one in my storage locker and wanted to give it a go.

Did you leave your heat exchanger on when you did yours?

 

[Unholy707]

Right.. I considered myself at the time, if you call todays findings lucky. Mine was at my doorstep within 14 days, this was fall 2023.

IC didn’t have enough press on the trackhawk platform at the time, so unfortunately i was between FI and active. I wasn’t gonna touch FI with all the stories and feedback there. but here we are with AI.

Vehicle is at Satera, they recommend IC. Unfortunately, already had this one in my storage locker and wanted to give it a go.

waiting to hear from them.. if they can heat the fittings so as to increase malleability and then bend their without disrupting where they’re pressed into the lines, wonder what the chances are we can skate by.
vehicle’s been there for over 2 months, I’m slowly withering away in her absence.

Did you leave your heat exchanger on when you did yours?

I left mine (the big one, deleted the small one) but I have a 3 way valve. Mine defaults to go through chiller only with 3 way bypass off, chiller and heat exchanger with bypass on (on cold days, which is never)

 

[GNBRETT]

That looks like an Abortion bro..... I wasnt even aware anyone other than FI made one. Do they offer any upgrades like FI does? U can buy the bigger IC pump from FI thats universal it replaces ur stock pump.

I can run mine with the AC that still goes into the cabin but I never use ut cause I want it all going to the chiller lol so I just suffer and be hot ha.

Rippafag has one for the Durango thats plug and play. Never heard back on the Trackhawk version. That little weasel tends to make posts about shit hes offering then "Crickets"....
....
Did the same with his 15 inch rear conversion for the Trackhawk. When I called to inquite about it suddenly wasnt offered it to anyone and it was gonna be for the "Shop truck" only. Suk a dick Rippafag. The dude has the WORST reputation in this communty complete clown!

IC works well. It was 65 degrees out.

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

I was pretty interested in the pierburg CWA400. asked installer, wasn’t recommended unless the oem fails and want to use as a replacement. He doesn’t think moving the fluid through intercooler faster will make a difference in IATs so I just left it at that. If someone has an expansion tank, I could see how may become more relevant.

Do you have the CWA400 on yours?

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

lol, I suspect I will run comp mode switch all the time and also suffer through warm in cabin air as I also wanna get the most out of the chiller. I only drive the vehicle in warm months so wanna enjoy much as I can, otherwise she’s in hibernation mode.

Rippatuned is 4 hours from me. I’ve read so much rough feedback on their shop I wouldn’t dream of associating with them.

 

[Unholy707]

I do not. Mine gets down to 23 degrees with drag valve on, 40 without. not needed. At all. Just another part to sell you.

I was pretty interested in the pierburg CWA400. asked installer, wasn’t recommended unless the oem fails and want to use as a replacement. He doesn’t think moving the fluid through intercooler faster will make a difference in IATs so I just left it at that. If someone has an expansion tank, I could see how may become more relevant.

Do you have the CWA400 on yours?

 

[Unholy707]

Theyre great guys. The people that talk smack are all in cahoots with each other, or are just being an echo box and have zero actual experience with them. It’s gang mentality to snuff out a competitor, that’s all it is. Ripa will take care of you. Don’t believe what you read online by people that are in cahoots with and sponsored by other shops.

lol, I suspect I will run comp mode switch all the time and also suffer through warm in cabin air as I also wanna get the most out of the chiller. I only drive the vehicle in warm months so wanna enjoy much as I can, otherwise she’s in hibernation mode.

Rippatuned is 4 hours from me. I’ve read so much rough feedback on their shop I wouldn’t dream of associating with them.

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

Theyre great guys. The people that talk smack are all in cahoots with each other, or are just being an echo box and have zero actual experience with them. It’s gang mentality to snuff out a competitor, that’s all it is. Ripa will take care of you. Don’t believe what you read online by people that are in cahoots with and sponsored by other shops.

That’s good to know.. are you speaking off the cuff or personal experience? I’m asking incase I am ever in a pinch and do consider them for help down the line (I’m having compound boost set-up now, I know he has some experience with turbo hellcats).

There’s certainly a dichotomy with his shop. For example, the first guy I met on our forum happened to live in my general area. I told him I struggled with finding a speed shop, and his reccomendation was rippatuned - that he’d been using them and only let them work on his vehicle.
Guy I sold my headlights to also transferred his vehicles there from a shop I won’t name. Said he’d been having a fine experience, little slow, but all seemed fine overall.

But then you have my IGLA installer who is very intertwined in the hellcat community and swears against Ripa. And have the feedback on TRX forum is rough. Needless to say, It was not easy deciding who to send my build to as no shop has consistently positive feedback.

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

Closing the loop. This is the completion photo received yesterday. I asked the shop for clarification what they to do or modify to get that line to connect to the chiller, but never heard back. Looks like they came to the conclusion that line was not for the molded in port coming out laterally, but for the rear positioned flush level port. but I still think they had to do something to make the fitting naturally articulate given as originally pictured it was north facing.

 

[covidcommander]

Closing the loop. This is the completion photo received yesterday. I asked the shop for clarification what they to do or modify to get that line to connect to the chiller, but never heard back. Looks like they came to the conclusion that line was not for the molded in port coming out laterally, but for the rear positioned flush level port. but I still think they had to do something to make the fitting naturally articulate given as originally pictured it was north facing.
View attachment 139824

Sucks when they don't answer your questions when you're paying them. I'd find a new shop fwiw

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

It does. I’m trying to be patient.

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

Took delivery of my Trackhawk last night.

Active interchiller seems to be working. No leaks. But more questions than answers.

Vehicle came back with a handful of new parts, namely compound boost set-up (hellion TT). The IATs and I/Cs are not as cold as some of the ranges I've seen from other vendors. I'm not sure if what I've seen is apples to oranges due to being different kit's and/or my set-up set-up produces a little more heat due to compound boost? Freon used to recharge 1234y. Tuner mentioned the kits components and materials used are all fairly similar, so results tend to be similar, just the execution and kit contents can differ (i.e. how PnP one is relative to another).

This is what I got yesterday evening on following variables (am I missing other influencing variables?)
E25 (had to top off with 93), ambient 74F, boost controller at base/default = roughly 15 PSI total boost

Best readings (comp switch on = all freon diverted to chiller)
I/c coolant 45F
IAT 115F (city @ 30 mph) and 100F (Highway @ 70 mph))

Middle readings (comp switch off, freon shared between cabin and chiller = cold air condition in cabin)
I/C coolant 60F
IAT 120F (not much diff from highway to city speeds)

Worst (AC off --> 3-way bypass should be shunting fluid toward the oem heat exchanger)
I/C coolant 102F
IAT 129F… this value may be a ceiling value? Tuner re-programmed the BCM such that the outside temperature on dash screen reads the IAT (and the IAT now reads ethanol content). The IAT as displayed as outside temp never went above 129F. However, pre-interchiller last summer, I have screen shots that include Ambient 81F -- I/C coolant of 109F and IAT 145F (city cruising)

So taken together...
• Stock = I/C coolant 30F over ambient .. IATs 65F over ambient.
• Active interchiller = I/C coolant avg. 15F below ambient (net -45F) and IATs 45 over ambient (net -20F)

From other chillers, they don't usually post as much context.. but I see people/mfgr's claiming I/C coolant's as far as 40F below ambient and IATs 10F above ambient.

Assuming my 3 way valve is correctly plumber and programmed (that my post-chiller fluid is actually bypassing the HX when the AC is on).. any thoughts?

• Not 100% sure where my IAT sensor is pulling the air temp from now that I don't have a CAI.
• If IAT is measuring pre I/C bricks, then does the IAT really matter?
• Do the temperature values become arbitrary past certain cooled temp i.e. as long as the temps are cold enough to prevent the tune from pulling timing then the chiller is doing its job?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Manifold Air Temp (MAT) is what pulls timing, it is not on the HMI screen. Usually MAT over 135 timing starts to be pulled but it’s called IAT retard. It is derived from averaging the readings of the 2 sensors under the cooling bricks (sensors closest to the heads) IAT should be the sensor on the snout before the SC inlet.

 

[Unholy707]

MAT will always be higher than IAT, also

 

[Unholy707]

I had 2-5 degrees of iat retard every pass before the chiller (145+ mat). Now ZERO retard with the chiller. Only has to be down to 40 degrees to help, 50 would probably do it. But I would flip the drag valve and get it down to the 30s or right below feeeing. Problem is you heat soak everything else. If it was a race car only I would have went with an ice box and the secondary pump on a switch to reserve ice. Tuner can also do some things to conserve ice.

 

[Unholy707]

I just looked at all of my slips and I didn’t realize how many passes I’ve made the last 2 years. Crazy

 

[OGTRIPLEOG]

Thanks guys for chiming in. So potentially, if my I/C coolant temps can stay in the 40s, I’m probably cool enough to prevent IAT retard?

@Unholy707 can you remind me you, you have the IC chiller with HX and by pass valve in place?

@16GoManGoHC2 I recall an old thread where you were thinking about this brand chiller. did you ever end up buying/installing?